Is there such a thing as too much beauty? When people think of England, they conjure romantic images of fairy tale villages filled with honeyed stoned cottages enveloped by a seemingly infinite terrain of undulating pastures made verdant by the generous summer rains. The homogeneous landscape, with its endless patchwork of quaint chocolate box hamlets, is the embodiment of rural perfection, evoking a kind of desperate nostalgia of a simpler, more peaceful way of life. This quintessential pastoral version of England does indeed exist. Just shy of a two-hour drive from London, the Cotswolds is a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life. The pace is slow here, and although the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty has been gently nuzzled into the present by the necessities of contemporary living, the countryside has changed very little over the centuries; charming steepled limestone churches still dot the countryside, and the fertile farming land continues to monopolise the landscape – broken now and then by the modern bitumen byways with mechanical tractors which eventually replaced the unpaved country lanes and the utilitarian horse and cart.



No other region of England has been more photographed than the Cotswolds. The results are picture perfect images of cobbled alleyways backlit by weather worn cottages whose darling wooden window boxes overflow with charming spring blooms. Every scene feels plucked from the pages of an Edward Thomas poem. The singing blackbirds and sweet meadows transcend from the poet’s pages into a beautiful reality. The Cotswolds encompasses the edge of five British counties and runs from the ancient Roman town of Bath reaching out to envelop parts of Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire, Warwickshire, Wiltshire, and Worcestershire. Each town or village has its own uniquely rural charm, with festivals and traditions that stretch back hundreds of years, such as Cirencester’s centuries old Charter Market, which is still held twice weekly in the town square selling an array of locally made delicacies and farm fresh produce. The honey-coloured stone architecture and bucolic landscape creates a harmonious uniformity that has given the Cotswolds a well-deserved reputation as one of the prettiest places in the world.





In England the welcome spring blooms arrive early while the warmer weather lags behind. The earliest bulbs herald the change of seasons, creating a sense of optimism for the coming warmth and sunshine. On a relatively blue-sky day in early April, Dan and I venture forth on a long-awaited road trip to the Cotswolds. Our trusty camera with extra batteries is almost as essential as our very long list of places to visit. Although the anticipated list is extensive, unfortunately our three-day journey is short – some things will just have to give. And that is the beauty of a trip to the Cotswolds; the joy is simply being immersed in the surroundings.


Our intrepid journey takes us westward towards our homebase for three glorious days in rural paradise. Stow-on-the-Wold is a historical town famed for its ancient outdoor market square which was established in Norman times to take advantage of the town’s strategic position at the crossroads of the ancient trading route. Fosse Way, a long and now modernised byway passing by Stow has its origins steeped firmly in history as the ancient Romans, who ruled England during the Iron Age, built the road in the 1st and 2nd Centuries marking the area as a western frontier of Roman rule.


Exposed at over 800 feet high, Stow – as it is so affectionately dubbed – is the highest of all the Cotswolds towns and appears less of a tourist honeypot than some of the other nearby villages. The once thriving market square, now adapted to the day tripper parking, is surrounded by an assortment of charming country shops. A mixed variety of delightful wares are on offer, from rustic homewares, quirky antiques and objets d’art. I am particularly drawn to some homemade preserves created using the local hedgerow berries and partake in a selection of fresh buttery scones served with sticky jam and mountains of clotted cream. Like many picturesque towns throughout the world, Stow and its neighbouring villages have unavoidably attracted throngs of beauty starved tourists to their flagstone paved streets. Yet the Cotswolds has managed to keep the tacky souvenirs to a minimum, thank goodness. The plethora of second-hand shops and antique dealers seems a more natural fit in this tranquil rural setting. Many lovely old things caught my eye, but I managed to muster up a little restraint and only came away with two. A pair of Victorian green glass apothecary bottles and a tiny hand felted Christmas mouse ornament were the perfect keepsakes from our weekend jaunt.




On the recommendation of dear friends, we stayed at a 14th Century inn located conveniently on the edge of the market square where the historic public house and adjacent accommodation presides over the town as it has for almost 900 years. The original inn has been extended to encompass the Georgian building next door, and the entire structure, although renovated, has kept the details that lend the place its uniquely historical charm. The old wooden floorboards, worn down with the centuries of visiting patrons, are so uneven in places that if one exits the bed in the daze of sleep one may find themselves staggering to the left in the direction of the gently tilting floor beneath. Endearing and particularly amusing is the creaky nature of the hotel. When we arrive to ascend the stairs to our third-floor room, we are delighted to hear that with each step the creaky symphony rose with us, while disembodied stag sculptures observe us from their stately wall perches. Eventually it is time to retreat back to London, but not before Dan and I embark on some noteworthy trips to the stunning neighbouring towns and spectacular manor houses, which will fill two more episodes of this Sunday Londoner’s countryside escape to the Cotswolds.



How to get there…
From London we hired a car and drove northwest up through Oxfordshire and through the center of the Cotswolds until we reached our homebase at Stow-on-the-Wold. If you have time, a lovely stop along the way would be to pass by Oxford, perhaps even staying overnight. There are many wonderful things to see and do in the town to warrant an overnight stay, and you can find more of my Oxford recommendations in my Oxford – Part 1 and Oxford – Part 2 posts.
It is possible to catch a train from London to Moreton-in-Marsh, a small Cotswold’s market town in the northern part of the area. On Tuesdays there is a cute little street market, as well as plenty of lovely stone houses and gardens to admire. Unfortunately, not many of the Cotswold towns are accessible by train, and the few buses that travel from town to town can be quite infrequent. If it is manageable, I would highly recommend driving, as the best part about the trip for us was exploring the countryside and taking a “wrong” turn here or there whenever the whim took us. On our second day we decided to ignore the map suggestions and headed down a winding dirt road where we were rewarded with huge, sprawling fields of glorious yellow canola flowers in full bloom. Of course we had to pull over for a closer look!


Such a stunning region! And what a wonderful guide you are! Love your stories!
Thank you Anna-Karina! I’m so glad you’re enjoying the series. It has been such a wonderful way to explore our new home here.
Rose x
What a beautiful area of England and how fortunate you are to be so close to everything
I shall definitely be visiting this stunning region one day!
Your descriptions and photos are so appealing 💕
Thanks Paula! And add the Cotswolds to that ever expanding list. First stop Rye and Cornwall!
Rose x
The country side always has great appeals for me. I love the iconic stone walks, shingle roofs, potted flowering plants, vines framing windows and doors and interesting names like “Awkward Hill Cottage”. Just love Old charming places. But, not a fan of mouse😉
Me too Sandie, especially here in England where the villages are so charming. I’ve always wondered whether the reality of country living would suit me…maybe when we win the lotto;)
Rose x
Your descriptions transport me Rose, and the photography is delightful, thank you!
Thank you Andrea, I’m so happy you’re enjoying the adventures around London. And my pleasure!
Rose x
Fabulous as always🤩🤗
Thank you Diana! So glad you’re enjoying the blog.
Rose x