Lacock Abbey and Village – Preserved in Time

The Abbey

Approaching from afar, along the winding drive that leads to the magnificent property, the imposing structure that is Lacock Abbey seems to appear suddenly around a bend, bestowing itself upon you like a beautiful, yet illusive mirage. Hints of the abbey’s age and historical importance are evident in the picturesque little village that surrounds it. As we make our way through the medieval streets in search of a carpark, I can’t help but feel torn between my desire to see the ancient abbey at once, or to plead with Dan to pull over immediately so that I can wander aimlessly throughout the cobbled streets. Reassuring myself that we have ample time for both, we push on towards the abbey, and the potential charms that await!

The morning is cool and crisp, with a smattering of wispy, white clouds strewn haphazardly overhead to enhance the fairytale allure. Nestled within the ceremonial county of Wiltshire, in the southwest of England, Lacock Abbey and its enveloping village rest comfortably among the naturalistic beauty that resides here. The landscape is beginning to flush with the warm hues of autumn, and the leaves above are tinged with amber, and will soon carpet the ground with their brittle, papery debris, crunching underfoot so gloriously. And although I could stay outside for hours, simply content to watch the approaching season change, Lacock Abbey, with its remarkable and multifaceted history, beckons us inside.

Its origins, dating back to the early 13^th century, tell the tale of a nunnery where the echoes of medieval devotion still resonate today. Originally home to just a handful of dedicated nuns, the abbey’s well-preserved medieval architecture, including cloisters, a sacristy, a chapter house, and monastic quarters, transports you to an age of spiritual contemplation and architectural grandeur.

The original cloister, which held the solemnity of centuries, was replaced during the 15^th century. This was not unusual in medieval times, where architectural styles evolved, and structures were adapted to meet new needs. The replacement of the original cloister stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Lacock Abbey and the flexibility of medieval architectural traditions, which ensured the abbey remained a vital centre of faith and culture throughout the ensuing centuries.

The 16th century heralded a dramatic transformation for Lacock Abbey. The significant political and religious upheaval, set in motion by Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries during the English Reformation, led to the closure of religious institutions. Lacock Abbey, like many of its kind, shed its monastic identity and embraced a new chapter as a stately country house.

Sir William Sharington, a prominent figure in the Tudor court, acquired the abbey following the Dissolution of the Monasteries and transformed it into his countryside residence. In a distinctive departure from convention, he integrated the cloister into the house’s design and introduced elements of Italian-inspired Renaissance architecture, including a dramatic octagonal tower.

In the heart of these ancient cloisters, my thoughts are inevitably drawn towards the nuns who, over the centuries, traversed these sacred corridors. I cannot help but wonder about their lives, their profound studies, and moments of quiet reflection. Looking out through the graceful arched windows, I imagine how the verdant view beyond must have offered solace to their weary eyes after many long hours of study and reflection.

These cloisters, so beautifully preserved, are like a portal to the past. I feel a certain sense of connection to those dedicated women who lived and worked here. Their devotion to scholarship and spirituality, their daily routines, and the history they have left behind are all palpable in this place of quietude and spiritual repair. It feels as if I am transported to a shared moment in time with them, serving as a poignant reminder of the enduring strength of human pursuits and the continuity of our common heritage as custodians upon the earth.

Yet, it is in the world of art and science that Lacock Abbey truly shines. John Ivory Talbot inherited Lacock in 1714 and transformed both the Abbey and its garden. His great grandson William Fox Talbot was a scientist and inventor who became a trailblazer in photography in the 1800’s. Fox Talbot’s journey from “photogenic drawing” experiments in 1834 to the creation of the first photographic negative the following year marked a turning point in visual art history. His work with silver iodide-treated paper, camera exposures, and a special development process led to the official birth of photography in 1839, shaping the future of modern photography.

The stately, south-facing room, with its iconic oriel latticed window – the subject of the earliest known surviving photographic negative using a camera – is a moving shrine to the scientist’s life work. Photographic instruments litter the space, and a stack of dog-eared books and old, well-worn maps give the impression that the inventor may have left the room in haste only moments before we enter.

Undoubtedly, the most striking room in Lacock Abbey – and my personal favourite – would have to be the Great Entrance Hall. Completed in the mid-18^th century for John Ivory Talbot, the Hall is a stunning example of Sanderson Miller’s architectural prowess and innovation. This Gothic-inspired room features an impressive chimneypiece and a barrel ceiling adorned with the coats of arms of Talbot’s friends, showcasing Miller’s unwavering attention to detail and inclination towards intricate design.

What makes the Entrance Hall even more intriguing are the niches along the walls, which house terracotta figures created by the enigmatic sculptor Victor Alexander Sederbach, a craftsman believed to be from Austria or South Germany. These exquisite terracotta sculptures were meticulously crafted at Lacock during the time of the room’s construction. Yet, while these works remain a testament to Sederbach’s talent, no other works by this sculptor are known to exist, adding a preserved allure to the historical and artistic significance of the Lacock Entrance Hall.

Around five decades ago, the custodianship of Lacock Abbey passed into the hands of the National Trust. Today, Lacock Abbey is not just an architectural gem but a living museum where history, art, and science converge. Its doors are open to curious minds and history lovers, providing an immersive experience that unravels the secrets of centuries past while celebrating the birth of an art form that forever changed the way we see the world.

The Village

Lacock, with its quintessentially old-world charm, weaves a tale of a storied past; of a prospering village thriving on the success of the wool industry. Over the course of centuries, the medieval village developed into a burgeoning town due to its strategic location along the busy Bristol to London Road.

In its heyday, Lacock was a hive of activity. The village boasted its own mill, where the rhythmic clack of spinning wheels filled the air. A lively weekly market drew people from near and far, while the scent of freshly brewed ales wafted from several welcoming pubs. Skilled artisans, including carpenters and wheelwrights, plied their trade, ensuring the village’s self-sufficiency.

As I meander through the charming village of Lacock, I am struck by the sensation of being enveloped in a living tableau of history. Its cobbled streets, their contours smoothed by the footfalls of countless generations, are flanked by impeccably preserved edifices that exude an aura of perpetuity. Time seems to lose all sense of significance here.

Among the village’s enigmatic treasures lay The Sign of the Angel, a 15th-century inn whose aged facade seems poised to divulge ancient tales; as if the very timbers and stones harbour the secrets of long-forgotten travellers, revellers, and enigmatic narratives that had graced its darkened chambers.

While the village may have shrunk in size, it remains prosperous, largely thanks to its magnetic attraction for tourists. The absence of intrusive power cables, jarring yellow road markings, and unsightly television aerials creates a setting that seems almost untouched by time. With its unspoiled charm, Lacock has become a sought-after location for film and television productions. Its historic streets have been graced by the likes of the 1995 BBC adaptation of Pride and Prejudice and the magical Harry Potter series, granting it legendary status as a film location. Lacock’s enduring allure ensures its continued prosperity, sustained by both tourism and its starring role in the world of cinema.

Our departure from the village was graced with an unexpectedly charming encounter. As we strolled through the churchyard, we happened upon a tortoiseshell-coloured cat, its fur aglow in the warm afternoon sun. The cat’s presence felt like a silent blessing, a subtle nod, as if it wished us well on our journey back to London, adding a touch of warmth and whimsy to our already delightful day.

I hope you enjoyed visiting Lacock Abbey and its incredible medieval Village with The Sunday Londoner. Please do leave a comment below, I’d love to hear from you! Have you ever visited this exceptional place?